Fiji - Part 1
This video is of our breif 7 day trip to fiji, this first part is a short clip of surfing at cloudbreak with the gopro. I used a mouth camera which is basically half of the back door floaty.
One week off from work to eat, sleep and surf. Not the normal ess trip where we would usually rough it for weeks on bikes, travelling slowly on local roads. This time I would be flying to Fiji's main island for 7 Days and staying at the Seashell resort in the village of Momi. I am travelling with 2 friends.
As we flew in we could see the reef setups restaurants and Cloudbreak, the swell was still there at about 8ft and was easing over the next 3 days. As soon as we landed the heat hit and it felt good, our driver Pop picked us up for the transfer to the resort. We stopped at the local super market in Nadi to get some food and drink for the week, we rushed as Pop needed to return to the resort to pickup other guests. We ended up getting a box of weetbix, 2 minute noodles that we never ate and some bottles of water.
We arrived at the resort which was built in the 70's by an Australian and now is owned by a Chineseman. It's a well kept place but is getting old, a perfect place if you want to do nothing but surf. We headed to the main restaurant area to get some food, at this time the boat was returning from it's afternoon run to cloudbreak. All the surfers were stoked with the waves they got, even a few broken boards. They said it was 8ft and tomorrow could be the same, now at this point I was thinking 8ft is massive and I am way out of my depth. An 8ft reef break is not like an 8ft open beach break, you have the shoulder to help you paddle out of trouble. This gave me some comfort. That night I didn't get much sleep in anticipation for these large waves.
We are up early and ready at the restaurant waiting for our breakfast. The breakfast is slow and some of the guys are anxious to get to the boat which won't leave until everyone is on board. We head off to Cloudbreak for the 20min boat ride at about 8:15am, late by Australian standards, it could already be blown out. We head around the reef and lines start to appear on the horizon, long walls, perfect cyclnder waves breaking one after another. We pull up to where most of the boats are and before we can hook up the anchor line, 2 of the guys are in the water. We stick around for a bit just to watch the wave before we head out.
It takes me at least 1hour before I catch my first wave and its a medium size one to say the least. Im on it 1 or 2 pumps and then I kick out. After that one is done my nerves are settled and I get a few more. After the session is finished, climbing back on board my friend Miles says he hit the reef, he lifts up his shirt and there are 3 reef grazes, 2 not so bad ones and 1 really large deep one. Can't believe on the first day he has hit the reef.
We get back to the resort and the first thing is to clean Miles' back. Getting all the reef polyps out of this graze is the most important thing so it doesn't get infected. We give it the works, clean with soapy water, clean with detol, then with soapy water again. And then the most painful part, we used lime, an surfer remiedy that could be just for the amusment of others but is known to disinfect wounds. I had to rub the lime into and over the wound, miles was lying down at this point, he was shaking from the pain, but didnt swear which was impresive.
After the lime we added some iodine and bandaged it up. Miles would have to have the next day off to let it heal a bit.